Having problems with your GE 24 in. Profile PDW7800 Built-in Dishwasher ?

No water entering

\015 Worked fine yesterday. Turned it on this morning and had no power. Checked the breaker and it had tripped. Flipped it back on. Unit had power but wouldn't fill with water. Thinking something electrical must have tripped the breaker of course. Checked the float which appears fine(it's down). Haven't check voltage to the valve yet. Thought I'd see what you think before I waste more time checking things that might be unrelated. If it might be the timer, can you please tell me where it's located? Underneath or in the door? No schematic came with this unit. Just typical owner's manual.\015

Answers :

Most likely the transorb has shorted out and the heavy amp draw has blown out the flood switch.. Also, it is very likely that the 24v water valve relay on the control board has burned the contacts!
The 24v relay can be replaced by desoldering the contacts and replacing it.. This is a very common relay and can be located online at mouser.com. the flood swich unti can be replace with a lever micro switch from the same source... Cost you about $20 plus shipment. A nice fun project with a $120 savings. Good luck... Just did mine and I purchased two of each for the "next time"! As for the "transorb"...... nice to save a valve..... which is about $20 or less, but puts at risk a whole lot more.... leave it out of the curcuit... just clip the wires and tape them off.
I see that this string is a year old, but I just experienced a similar problem with my GE Profile Dishwasher PDW7880G00SS. It seemed to be a problem with the water valve. The schematics are missing from the dishwasher, and GE does not see fit to provide them online.

On closer inspection, the float switch was open and the wires connected to the water valve indicated a short. I removed the wires and checked the valve, which now indicated about 1k ohm. Rechecked the wires, which indicated a dead short. This appears to be the "Transorb" that was mentioned. After taking apart the Float switch, it appears to be completely destroyed. The float switch indicates that it is rated for 3 amperes...seems like a bad design.

The average cost of a new float switch is between $40-$70. Not sure about the Transorb, or what else may be damaged. At this point I think that Solution #3, carwhisperer, has the right idea.
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