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Kenmore 665 - clean light blinks 7X - help

\015 Kenmore Elite 665.16262400 \012I have a Kenmore Elite 665 series dish washer with the clean light blinking. It blinks 7 times. I have reset it it with the normal wash-heated dry buttons several times. After a reset it goes through some steps and I believe no light comes on at all. But when i try to wash a load afterwards with the normal cycle the green light starts to blink each time when it is well into the cycle. The heater element shows 13 ohm. I have reseated the connections to the heater and they looked fine to begin with. I have reseated the connections to the thermistor ( temp sensor). I also reseated the strip to the control panel. The dishwasher gets water and the water is sprayed by the arms. The door latch switches seem to be fine ( I manually moved them), but I can not check if they actually work when the door is closed. Float is not stuck open. HELP!\012Any suggestions on what to do next?\012Can I safely check if the heater element actually heats up?\012Can I safely check if there is power to the heater element during the cycle?\012Could it be the control board? Can I test the control board?\012Any suggestion or any answer would be greatly appreciated.\015

Answers :

Get its circuit kit checked, it is malfunctioning.

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The Clean light blinking 7 times is a fairly common problem - it's the "water-not-heating" error. Basically, the controller is looking for a temperature rise of so-many degrees in so-many minutes (I forget the exact values). This can be caused by many things, and it sounds like you've checked most of them - the heater element, the temp sensor, the thermal limiter, and the door switch(es). In my experience, the most common problem is in the door latch. First of all, check the "strike" - that's the part that sticks out from the top of the dishwasher that goes into the latch in the door. That part is supposed to press down on the latch mechanism, which engages the 2 microswitches. You might try removing that strike (you can do it without removing the dishwasher by pressing both side pieces with a small screwdriver and pulling the strike out). Then bend it down a little bit more so it exerts more pressure on the latch, and re-install it. Also make sure the latch itself is free to move. If something (like a soda) gets spilled into the latch, it can cause the plastic parts to stick and not slide to engage the 2 door switches. You might need to take the latch out (unplug the dishwasher first!), remove the switches, and clean the plastic parts with water, dry it, and then re-assemble it.
\012The second-most common cause is the controller itself. Take the door apart (an easy job if you have a #15 Torx or star screwdriver (or screwdriver bit for your drill or power screwdriver). Remove the cover over the controller by using a screwdriver to slightly bend the plastic tabs that hold it in place. Now look at the control board carefully, especially around those 2 multi-wire connectors that have the heavy or thicker wires in them. Look at the board and connectors for signs of over-heating or plastic melting. If so, you found the cause - a loose connection. Chances are it melted the solder connection on the other side of the board. If it's really bad, you will have to replace the control board, and repair or replace the wire harness.
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